Cement forms fast install

This ensures adequate moisture for proper hydration of the cement particles. All rights reserved. Contact Us. Dealer Finder. Less Expensive than lumber Fastfoot is significantly less expensive than dimensional lumber to form concrete footings. This means your 2x4s and stakes can be re-used indefinitely. For small slabs, you can use a wheel barrow and shovel, but renting a concrete mixer can make the process easier.

If your concrete arrives in a ready mix truck, the drum on the back of the truck will be spinning to keep the concrete from settling and getting hard. Hire a pro: Find concrete pouring companies near me.

Pour wet concrete into the forms until they are full to the top edge. While the wet concrete is being poured, use shovels, rakes and "come alongs" special concrete rake to move the concrete to make sure there are no voids or air pockets.

Read more about placing concrete. Use a large metal or wood board to screed the top of the concrete. Screeding helps compact and consolidate the concrete, and begins the smoothing and leveling process. Next, use a float to further compact the concrete, even out any high or low areas, and create a smooth finish. Small hand-held floats are good for edges and detail work, large bull floats are best for working large areas.

At the same time, work control joints and edges into the concrete with special hand tools. Read more about how to finish concrete. If the concrete will receive a rough broom finish, no additional finishing may be needed. If the concrete will be smooth toweled or stamped, a steel trowel finish is needed.

Let the concrete rest until the surface begins to firm up. Once firm, use a steel trowel to create a smooth, hard and uniform finish. Steel troweling can be done by "skating" across the surface on knee boards, troweling small areas at a time, or with tools on long poles known as "fresnos" or "funny trowels".

Watch a fresno tool video demonstration. Once all the troweling float or steel is complete the final finish can be applied to the concrete.

The most basic type of finish is known as a "broom finish". A special broom is pulled across the concrete surface creating a rough textured surface. Use a post hole digger to scoop out the soil where you plan to place the footing.

The hole should be slightly wider than the diameter of the form tube. Having an additional 1—2 inches 2. This will only increase the amount of backfilling you'll have to do later. Fill the bottom of the hole with 2—6 inches 5.

For most projects, a medium-sized all-purpose gravel will provide the best results. A layer of gravel will promote runoff, which can protect the footing from slipping or weathering and increase its lifespan.

Compact the gravel with a wood post. Use the blunt end of the post to tamp the gravel down flat. This will force the piece closer together, offering increased stability and creating a more level base. Part 2. Mark the desired depth on the outside of the form tube. Stretch a tape measure along the side of the tube and use a carpenter's pencil to draw a line indicating the depth measurement. You'll be sawing along this line to cut the tube to the right size.

They typically come in 4' lengths, which you cut to size yourself depending on the needs of your project. Form tubes are available in diameters of 6 inches 15 cm , 8 inches 20 cm , 10 inches 25 cm , and 12 inches 30 cm.

Make sure the tube you're using meets the size requirements outlined in your local building codes for the structure you're putting up. Use a handsaw to cut the tube to length. Lay the tube on its side and line up the teeth of the saw blade with the marking you just made. Saw straight through the tube using smooth, precise strokes, steadying it with your free hand while you work. It may help to do your sawing on grass or another soft surface to keep the tube from rolling or sliding.

The added height will place the footing a few inches above the soil so that your lumber won't be directly exposed to standing water. Insert the form tube into the support hole. Slide the tube in with the sawed-end down so that the upper end is straight and level. Once you've got the tube in the hole, press down firmly from the top to sink it deeper into the gravel base.

Backfill the support hole. Push the loose dirt in around the form tube using your shovel. Pile any remaining soil up around the edges and tamp it gently. With the hole filled, the tube should sit upright on its own. Part 3. Fill the form tube halfway with concrete. Shovel the wet concrete mix into the tube a little at a time to avoid making a mess. It should come to a stop roughly 12 inches 30 cm from the top of the tube.

Consolidate the concrete using a hand trowel. Jam the tip of the trowel into the surface of the concrete repeatedly. Agitating the concrete will work out air pockets, dry spots, and other inconsistencies. Continue consolidating until the concrete has settled completely inside the tube. If left untreated, even small air pockets can lead to serious structural defects like cracking and crumbling.